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The fact

What to see in Madeira, written quite a lot, but I want to present you the option of

How can this be done.

A short trip to Madeira was held totally spontaneously. On foot, by bike, by car ...? Hastily study of the Internet clear answer to this question is not allowed. We solve on the spot! The machine is in any case not hurt. From the piles of obsessive Europcar, Herz, etc. fished the same pair of "narrow-minded" companies. In one of them all was superb - and the price and conditions, and the choice of models - so stop the election for a second. Tickets bought, the car is ordered, were flying. I very much wanted to see from the air famous runway on stilts, but failed. Representative of car rental honestly waited at the exit from the trunk with my name on the sheet. Ten minutes on the formalities, and we loaded on our "maderiyskogo horse.

Looking ahead, I will give to potential followers not to order the cheapest car group. On the steep mountain slopes and mountain roads minicar can not simply pull it out. In Funchal, we were interested, above all, tourist information office (

, Booklets). Subtracts the Internet that

for wild nights in Madeira must be special. permission

, Decided to try an "honest way". Department issuing these permits, located in the next quarter to the left from the main tourist information office (honestly, I forgot the name). Request permission in advance is impossible - only full-time, and then wait two working days. But the contrary, it is necessary to fill out a questionnaire with the exact schedule of nights (today Rabasale, then two np7i at Ribeiro Frio ...). This is done in order to fire, so that if somewhere something to light up, and you will be enrolled slept in this place that day, then you first and take over the gills. Since the scheduling of the concept of "free flight" absolutely did not fit on this communication with the authorities and ended.

Zatar groceries "ping Doce" (Katya long scream of the name), quickly blast the out of town for voluntary spaces - on the south coast to the west.

I Rysachil on streamers and in the Alps d the Pyrenees, but

- It is something! In other places - only to gas, slowed - not troneshsya. Coolest tunnels - unprepared! Crudely chopped off lumps of stone from which to pour water all over, and all this in the light of your headlights only ... expect a collapse at any second.

And thats bananas! I always thought that they are grown on vast plantations, and then the boxes are loaded on the 40-ton trucks ... Maybe somewhere it is, but in Madeira, we met more and more private garden-ogorodiki, compact stick in any empty plot of land. Admire this miracle grass alive was fun, but the fruits were all green, so that to provide all possible assistance in the harvest had no chance.

The first observation deck. Apparently, Cape fat - impressive! Mistake, Cape fat twice, and even more impressive. Dine in the restaurant on the hillside with fabulous views of the eastern part of the island. Below raspadok green dotted with tile roofs, lined meander and imbued with "spokes" of the highway tunnel in the tunnel.

Close to sunset we reach in Ribeira Brava. Quiet cozy town with a lovely promenade and even a semblance of the beach - has a very romantic evening. Sits in the outdoor cafe to listen to local folk band. Patience enough only for a couple of rooms. Another shot in the twilight before

Ponta do Sol. If you like to rest comfortably and cozy, but far from city bustle, the best place in Madeira, you will not find!

Our gaze is directed into the jungle - to the wolves and bears. Madeira with them, apparently, napryazhenka, therefore, are worn on the roads in the headlights many bad rabbits. After some plutany in the night as if all of a sudden leave of suitable clearing in the area of the pass Enkumeada equipped with tables, fireplace, piped water and smooth the area under the tent. Do not take all these charms, quickly lay down to sleep. It was cool, but rolled up somewhere Aborigines shied away half the night across the clearing, uttering cries of battle. In general, sleep did not work.

In the morning we get down to the northern coast. Here it is, the real savagery: a cool wind, harsh steep banks with winding roads snake on the roof, persistent surf ... Lets go west to

Porto Monizh. There are the famous natural pools and so coveted Katya camping. Camping in Madeira - a place to go in under the bridge equipped 50-meter lawn, where for a modest fee, you can feel like an inhabitant of the zoo for the amusement of everyone passing by. Successfully bury the idea of civilized tent-residence, go explore the rocky pools.

Not to say that they are totally natural - people loved here two or three concrete parapets - but worse than this did not become. Even if youre not a fan of squash in cold water, you can enjoy for hours on the surf, crashing with a roar of coastal reefs. But when sitting in the pool, watching a deadly rushing at you a lot, and do not reach all three meters, it shatters into pieces on the sharp-edged stones, covering the sea spray, about the temperature of the water completely forgotten.

Further west along the coast road there. Clamber up - will look for a place to sleep close to the renowned Rabasalu. Weather like substituted: just shone the setting sun, and now we have our way in thick fog with a cold wind. No, not fog it! Break cloud and do not believe their eyes - for us prostrated absolutely flat steppe. No rock formations, scrub ... it is simply impossible to believe that we are at a height of 1500 m. In the bare cold steppe with a tent is not sugar, it is necessary to use the gifts of civilization. Small cozy otelchik cost us 50 euros per night - not bad for a 4 *! However, no choice - in a given area is the only habitat.

In the morning a leisurely breakfast, and

Rabasal. Even the most lazy people do not pass by this oasis, is for them here runs minibus on the highway until Rabasala where and starts walking trails. To warm up walking to the falls risk. Long narrow jet of water licks glossy basalt boulders and disappears in the depths of the abyss - as in a cartoon!

Get down to the "25-ti fonts" - nice, but it would be even better if the older Artanyaki and Burghers are not stamped are slender columns. Where to get away from them? Yeah, thats crooked path goes steeply down through the bushes. Forward! After a rapid descent to leave a lonely spacious Levada, but here Pribluda some humanoids. One Olympic champion was the inscription on the shirt: "You have to do a little more to be a champion". We moved some some 50m away from the trodden paths and ... Yes! Yes! Here it is, the final part of the waterfall - transparent virgin lake surrounded by granite boulders - its just like in the movies! And not a single person! Take off the backpack, undress ... Oo-oo-x!

- Mamma Mia! Surely in a movie falls so cold?

Heat lasts for 30 seconds, impressions - on the floor of life.

Kate hesitated.

- Are you going too?

- ... Go!

The bright sun, murmuring water, sitting on the rocks nudes ... Ironically, the secret images when you transfer to your computer have been irretrievably lost. No one will ever see "rodenovskogo thinker" on the background of a waterfall. Apparently, this was only our stay.

Levada leads to the tunnel. Just as a joke, stepped into the darkness. The expression "light at the end of the tunnel it is clearly not from here. Something barely flickering in the distance suggests that perhaps there is a way out. Katyukhin light (ha ha) barely shines on the floor meter; Levada left, right - crooked wall, top periodically pours. That was the whole journey of suspense, full of jokes, abrasions, dirty sleeves and immediately worked out a system of commands: "wide, narrow ledge, in single file, on rails, fodes ... ... your mother!" (In Russian critical time mats are, nevertheless, expressive Portuguese). Coming out, realized that passed through the ridge which runs along the crest of the highway. Two peasants with their sickles lazyat in the bushes (hemp mow, no way! "), asking the way up. I was told that in the Azores eerie dialect of Portuguese. At Madeira, I assure you, no better. I did not understand half of the explanations for the aborigines. steep ascent over the rocks and bushes in the thick flakes of mist. All around is full of young shoots of a fern. Id like to taste the delicacies, but scrapped it felt different than our Far East - suddenly unpalatable? "I could not go. Katya have the same lack of desire to endlessly fotit flowers, flowers, flowers ... when I got to the car, his legs had to unfasten. In the mouth blew everything that was edible.

Emigrate from the plateau Paul da Serra do not like, but on the great feats of forces no longer there. We decided to finish off the day climbing to the light

peak Ruivo do Paul - the highest point in the western part of the island. I sincerely advise you to visit here - the form is opened simply amazing.

The next day decide to start with a tour of colored houses Santana - there and went to bed. The enemy would not wish to seek a place under a tent in the mountains at night ... spit, and eventually arrive in rezidensial. Again, 4 *, more civilian clothes, even cheaper.

Houses colored funny, but have left a deep memory, a large parrot in the shop and it was interesting. Because, after yesterdays adventures did not want to add stress, decided to "tick" at a nearby

Synergy Ruivo (Madeiras highest point). On the way upstairs caught eyes for a complex of wooden cottages tucked away on the edge of the forest. Explored. This bungalow park "ranch", acting as apartments. Thats where a good idea to stay! Climbing up to the last parking space, it appears that up to a peak of 2.9 km.

- Well, lets take a walk!

In shorts, t-shirts and sandals, a la shale, take a camera and camera down. The wide path lined with smooth stones cemented, occasionally occur, such as cement and stone attics - the feeling that if you wait a bit, then the bus will pick. Do not climb, and the solid grace, only semolina lacking. To the peak reached around , but something ... somehow ... not enough.

- And lets out there, to the peak Areeyro, but not completely go, and come back in a circle - right here on the map is drawn.

My friends, do not believe Madeyrovskim cards! With circular route we severely prick three times. Stamped in the walking pace halfway through, find walled passage in the rock. This was the reverse branch of the ring. Well, not to return the same back! We ask for opposing the French, far from it to the end.

- From this place two hours. And back the same.

Dressed as necessary (trekking poles, boots, backpacks), pedestrians do not look fresh.

- Lochy, just can not walk! We have two hours there and back escapes.

Ah, hubris, youre the worst of sins! From this place just started "most interesting". Steep drops with stone deposits and wet, slippery areas, tunnel, full of filthy puddles, carved into the rock stage, under a fire escape at ...

Synergy Areeyro piece of cheese cake with Coca-Cola seemed just food of the gods. On the way back to even think DID NOT WANT ... Before standing alone machines arrived already dark. "Cakewalk," resulted in a 17 km. For my sandals this campaign was the last. Later read in the guidebook that

route rush Ruivo - Pico Areeyro "- for very experienced highly motivated walkers only!!!

Thats quite a fight, we got into big bullies:)

Get down on the serpentine road to Santana. Op-pa! The road is covered with a barrier at the castle. It turns out that you can only go up to 21.00. Im going to look for the huntsman.

Already a barrier, we realized that the "ranch", we met not by accident. Kottedzhik really was very nice - two-storey with a toilet, bathroom, kitchen and even the stove. Calculated max. 8 people. Perhaps the best housing in our voyage. 45 euros per couple per night. Longest - cheaper, but could not prevail on us to stay for a couple of nights, we have firmly decided that tomorrow we will have in another place.

The next day, any active entertainment, I would not agree even at gunpoint, so went to the capital drinkat "Madeira". The tour. Information said that

wine cellars in Funchal few, but we did not bother themselves to, and simply went to neighboring gates.

Dimly lit spacious room with original tables and a bar. Tasting of 3-5-year-old wine is free, more self-possessed - for money. Liked, you can immediately buy. Although after the 3rd glass of the difference in grades of "Madeira" feel quite weak, we tried a dozen samples, and a dozen bottles have the same output. The rest of the day spent in a chaotic traveling back and forth: a supermarket, a mountain of Monte, the eastern extremity of the island, again Funchal ...

The next day, identified Ribeiro Frio, and after much gossip decided that the best starting point there will be (ha ha!) Santana. Hosts bungalow park literally tore our eyes when we again returned to a favorite cottage, but ... even returned unfinished bottle of wine, we forgot in the morning in the fridge:). Dinner was home.

Reaching out to the Ribeiro Frio, had fairly having strayed. The area that is perhaps the most picturesque on the island - forests, glades, beautiful views - but no super-experience was not just a nice refreshing walk with intimate conversations along the Levada on wooded slopes. But what is the "Cider" bought a trade on the footpath at Old ladies!

The next attempt to spend the night "in the wild." Were going to

Curral das Freiras. As in the lair Kashchei! The village is surrounded by impregnable cliffs. It will be exciting ... but nowhere to put a tent.

- Over there - shows the reception of the hotel - quite often I see people with a tent.

"Over there" was a scrap of land 10 square meters, squeezed between the three roads. Just remembered the typical image of the uninhabited islands of the movie: the earth mound with a palm tree in the middle of the ocean.

After some brief thoughts going on already familiar Enkumeadu. The evening came to fame - the fire and the bright stars above his head. "Cider" just went on HURRAY! Apparently fun was not one of us - cool riders repeatedly flew shrieking up and down on a streamer. Sleep did not want to go to the pass to admire the moon and the lights of villages in the valley.

The night was warm, the morning rose as cucumbers. We leave to explore the south-west coast. The most striking moment of the day was swimming in the western tip of the island. Going down to the cable car to the foot of the cliffs, access to the beach, littered with meter pellets. Bathing was: seizing the moment, is selected on all fours closer to the waters edge and merges with a larger stone, clasping his hands and feet, waiting for when the incident wave engulf you in the back, and then, still on all fours, quickly get away, jumping from stone to stone, passed over until the next wave. Cherished childhood desire to be fur seals in the day evaporated without a trace. :)

Again on the plateau of Paul da Serra. The map seen some lake, in Reale was a large puddle, next to the abundance of wandering cows. But a blessing in disguise - are strewn everywhere dry wood, and behind the embankment is a cozy nook for parking. Hung on a bush threatening note "Private Spaces. Protected by the legislation of Russia", going to dinner in Porto Monizh. Night on the nature was not in vain. Katya was so happy that we have looked for all visitors to the restaurant. However, after a couple of hours of sadness clouded her face - somewhere lost favorite jacket. Where do you think? In a place that is beyond our will become the most visited Madeira - in Santana.

In the morning the first thing going for a loss, then, having strayed a bit, we find the village Camacha. Glorified this place basketry. From elementary breadbasket baskets and lace up chairs and sofas. In the center of the village is a factory-shop, where on the ground floor you can admire the craftsmen at work, and then wander for hours on two upper floors, trying to choose the best from the diversity of the finished product. On the one hand, standing with her mouth open, watching as some simple finger movements transformed into elegant bars trivial items on the other hand, from the uncomfortable realization that many of these people spend in their craft all my life, with no understanding of the many delights of the world.

At dinner, believing the waiter, too long and missed the toboggan - riding on a wooden sledge with mountains on the asphalt.

Had to fly very early the next morning, so last night decided to do without exoticism. They took extensive suite for 30 euros in Ribeira Brava, packed bags, and went to say goodbye to Madeira. Bathed at the local beach, stumbled on the way back to the kind of procession. People walked slowly through the streets with lighted candles. Relaxed mind reacted too late: "Tomorrow, after May 13! This render the statue of Fatima." Like most of the brightest events, it happened completely unplanned, when no cameras, no camera at hand was not there. The evening ended with ice cream tasting liqueur in a very noisy bar, but not enough, and went to an unknown destination to admire the moon track with some rock. However wanted to prolong the night, I had to sleep at least a couple of hours ...

Leaving 5h.

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